The Clam Shack

Nestled by the Kennebunkport Bridge and overlooking a marina, sits a modest white shack called The Clam Shack. But as one approaches this nondescript seafood shack, dozens of clippings and awards reveal the seafood shack's reputation amongst travelers, locals, food writers and foodies alike. "The Shack", as it's known, is a favorite among locals and on many a travelers' itinerary. The Clam Shack represents not only Kennebunkport (yes, of the Bush family compound) but also an American, New England tradition - lobster rolls and fried clams.

Maine is probably best known for its lobsters and what better way to showcase the sweet, succulent meat than on a soft, buttered hot dog bun (or in The Shack's case - a hamburger bun, which traditionalists swear is how a lobster roll was originally served). The Shack serves its lobster rolls using hand-shredded lobster meat served, still warm in the bun, two ways - with mayo or melted butter. Customers and awards claim The Shack's lobster rolls are the best anywhere, but my personal favorite are the fried clams.

The fried Maine steamers (also known as Ipswich, piss, long-neck or soft-shell clams) are not too greasy and extremely fresh and flavorful - its juices encased in the light, crunchy batter. The fried clam is a classic New England tradition, invented in 1916 at Woodman's in Essex, MA, where I happened to visit earlier that week. While the fried clams were excellent at Woodman's, the clams were not nearly as flavorful or juicy as The Shack's. Maybe it was being by the ocean that I could taste the salt water of the Atlantic in each Shack clam. Undoubtedly, a great way to eat fried clams is washing it all down with an ice-cold lemonade (ordered separately and prepared before your very eyes), watching the boats go by and enjoying the last days of summer.

The Clam Shack - On the Bridge Kennebunkport, ME 04046 (207)967-3321





Living in Los Angeles, I did not grow up with lobster rolls nor had a clue what it is was until I moved to New York 3 years ago. The classic lobster roll is served with mayo-bound mixed meat and can include lemon, celery, chives, parsley and/or lettuce. My favorites places for lobster rolls in Manhattan, Pearl Oyster Bar and Mary's Fish Camp, serve theirs with baby lettuce and shoestring fries. I've included Pearl Oyster Bar's lobster roll recipe (although EVERYTHING is excellent at both West Village restaurants). If you don't have access to lobster meat, you can get your very own 'Maine Lobster Kit' by calling The Clam Shack. The kit includes 1 lb. of hand-picked lobster meat, 6 traditional top load buns, 3 oz. mayo and a recipe card.

Pearl Oyster Bar Lobster Rolls

Serves 4
4 lobsters* (1-lb. each) or 1 pound lobster meat
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup finely chopped celery
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
4 top-loading hot dog buns**
chopped chives -- for garnish

*To save on cooking time, you can buy shelled lobster meat at Citarella markets.

**Can be ordered at mapleandmore.com. Pepperidge Farm sells a version with no side crusts.

Combine lobster, mayonnaise, and next 4 ingredients. Cover and chill until ready to serve.

Melt butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Press open buns, and place in skillet, turning to coat both sides. Cook buns until golden brown on both sides.

Fill bun with lobster filling, and sprinkle with chopped chives, if desired. Serve with shoestring French fries and baby lettuces, if desired.

Hot Dawg!

Hot dogs are a sure crowd pleaser - conjuring up memories of summer barbeques and ball games and spurring impassioned debates on what goes on a dog. So, what makes the perfect hot dog? Chicagoans eat their dogs on a poppy seed bun with mustard, onions, sweet relish, dill pickle, tomatoes, hot peppers and celery salt (absolutely no ketchup!). New Yorkers love their hot dogs - Coney Island's famous Nathan's hot dogs, Gray's Papayas snappy-skinned dogs and "dirty water dogs" eaten at 4 in the morning. Being an Angeleno, my idea of the perfect dog is queuing up at Pink's for a chili dog with sauerkraut or eating an unadulterated foot-long Dodger dog with mustard and relish.

I recently visited Maine and stopped by Wasses Hot Dogs in Belfast where I had a life-altering hot dog experience. Sure, Maine is known for its lobsters and blueberries, but hot dogs? Wasses starts with a frank, fried on a griddle in peanut oil, which sits inside a fluffy, steamed New England-style split top bun (split on top, not the side with no side crusts). The menu is small and the toppings are minimal - grilled onions and mustard and your choice of sauerkraut, cheese, chili or bacon. I prefer sauerkraut on my dog whose tartness compliments the sweet grilled onions and relish, tangy mustard, savory pork and beef Kirshner frank, and just enough spongy bun. Wasses has been making hot dogs this way since 1972 when Keith Wass bought a tiny stand in Rockland, Maine (locations also include Belfast and Thomaston). Maine prides itself on its culinary traditions and Wasses is no exception. Known across Maine, Wasses hot dogs are another reason to visit the gastronomic-rich state. Spotting a Wasses stand and biting into all Maine-made dog will immediately put a smile on your face and have you wanting more.

Wasses Hot Dogs - 2 North Main Street Rockland, Maine

more pink berry, please!

Before I even stepped foot in one, I decided I hated Pinkberry already. Everyone had been raving about this fro-yo which has spawned a craze and created addicts. I finally succumbed to see what all the fuss was about. After ordering a small plain yogurt with mango and rasberries, I concluded that it was overrated and a scam, some Pinkberry conspiracy. It tasted just like yo-gu-r-t, a refreshing, zingy, Korean drink that comes in shot glass-sized plastic container, a childhood favorite. I had my suspicions.

It was indeed owned by a Korean-American (Hye Kyung Hwang is 32 and came to the States in 1992 and attended USC business school. ) I could just imagine someone in the back pouring buckets of the Korean export into the machines and calling it "healthy", "good for digestion", "builds strong teeth and bones" and "helps prevent acne and clears skin". Then again, these are claims made from the same people who advertise losing inches off your waist from weird looking hulahoops and fat massagers.

Pinkberry is emulated after Red Mango, which first opened in Korea in 2003 and now has 170 stores. Both places serve smoothies and frozen yogurt in original and green tea. However, Pinkberry tries to seperate itself from Red Mango and has sparked some controversy.

All these yogurt places are essentially the same - frozen yogurt with pick-your-own-toppings. The yogurt is fat-free, has fresh fruit toppings and pretty, minimalist packaging. With it's marketability, Pinkberry's wild success has spawned knock-offs and its own franchising. (There's apparently a long waiting process where your application is scutinized, but start up is under half a million.)

With so many new stores opening, it's hard to keep them all straight. There's Fiore (in Little Tokyo), Yogurt Queen (on Melorse), Yolato (in the West Village) and Kiwiberri (across from the Beverly Center). Not only that, frozen yogurt places (i,e. Big Chill) now have to compete with Pinkberry and are offering "the new yogurt" yogurt.

To add more drama, a Pinkberry owner verbally threatened the owner of Kiwiberri, which ensued in a police report. (The case remains open.) The owner of Red Mango is not mad about Pinkberry bankrolling on their idea; he seems confident that his company's name and reputation will sell its itself. “We want to get the truth out there. Red Mango introduced the ‘natural’ frozen yogurt product category to Korea, and many other copycat competitors followed. You know who opened first. It’s a crazy mess yogurt war right now.” (Angelenos can actually find Red Mango at the California Roll & Sushi near Peet's Coffee in Westwood Village.) Not to worry Red Mango lovers, they, too, are planning to expand all over the States.

With Pinkberry taking over the world (Koreatown, Larchmont, Sawtelle, Melrose and La Brea, West Hollywood, Westwood, Beverly Hills, 2nd Avenue and 82nd Street, Chelsea, 32nd Street (Manhattan's Koreatown)) and other competitors sprouting up everywhere, I can't help but wonder "Is this yogurt craze going to die out?" How can store owners stay afloat with all the competition and spin themselves to be different?

Pinkberry's aim is to expand to areas where people are concerned about helath and losing weight. With the success and expansion of Whole Foods, Jamba Juica and Chipotle in New York, I don't doubt that Pinkberry will be embraced by New Yorkers. (Plus, New York City is more liveable and health-conscious than it was years ago with the addition of Battery Park, yoga studios, Whole Foods and hybrid taxi cabs.) But how "healthy" is Pinkberry?

Pinkberry's owner is tight-lipped about her secret recipe. But Fiore owner revealed that she uses “a yogurt base powder from Italy, yogurt, milk, water and a little citrus, natural lemon juice to make it more refreshing." Pinkberry may be healthier than ice cream or traditonal frozen yogurt in terms of less calories, but it's definitely not "healthy". Pinkberry does not have enough vitamins to be labeled "healthy", but because the product is not being sold in stores, it does not violate any FDA regulations. Furthermore, altough Pinkberry has 25 calories per ounce, that's still about 400 calories in a medium cup, no fewer calories than Tasti-D-Lite.

I decided to give Pinkberry another try on a visit to Los Angeles. With the enthusiasm of a child staring behind the glass (so many choices!), I decided on the fat, succelent blackberries, blueberries (my favorite fruit! ...behind chirimoya) and strawberries. I was told it would be more economical to order a medium with 3 toppings instead of a small with 3, so I was stuck with my towering frozen yogurt, I have to admit, felt a little embarrassed. But before I knew it, I was half way through my yogurt and polished off every last drop and berry in my cup.

Pinkberry has a light, airy and icy consistency, unlike ice cream, frozen yogurt or gelato. At first its almost crisp consistency throws you off and its tartness is unlike any frozen treat you've had before. But my experince is like everybody else's - you can't believe you ate the whole thing, yet you can't get enough.

What I like about Pinkberry is the experince. Waiting in line among other Pinkberry devotees, chosing your ingredients (Fruity Pebbles and Captain Crunch evoke childhood nostalgia, browsing through the whimsical Alessi products, and sitting in the minimalist room with clear-colored Lucite chairs. You silently eat, thoroughly enjoying your wonderful treat, delighting in the fact that you're saving calories and getting the day's vitamins with spoonfuls of fruit.

Is it a healthy snack? Is it dessert? Is it worth the $4.95? the lines? Is it overrated? Either way, it's delicious and I could never pass up Pinkberry.

Blueberry Smoothie

Who doesn't love blueberries? This fruit is great by itself, in baking, pancakes and jams. They evoke images of summer and juicy sweetness. Native to North America, blueberries peak in July and are high in antioxidants. When shopping for these cute berries, look for tautness. This is a refreshing, super easy recipe that you can make as a snack or for breakfast. Add anything you like to suit your palette.

1 pint fresh blueberries

1 banana

1/2 cup plain yogurt

3/4 cup milk

1/2 cup of ice (like it thicker? add more ice.)

2 tsp. honey (optional)

Blend well.

Yields: 1 large serving

pizzeria mozza

Americans eat approximately 100 acres of pizza each day (read: 350 slices per second). With pizza's popularity, it's a no brainer that a pizzeria (a good pizzeria) would open to success and popularity in the pizza-deprived Los Angeles.
Los Angeles is no New York, but it's food scene is now powered by uber-chefs and food that can rival the Big Apple. Where else but in L.A. would Wolfgang Puck have a Richard Meier designed building (re: Cut)? This is the city that birthed Puck's Spago, Nobu Matsuhisa's Matsuhisa and invented the power lunch. Los Angeles is making people notice (or salivate, rather). Our chefs are becoming household names, namely Suzanne Goin who was named one of the best new chefs in 1999 by Food + Wine magazine.

The city is filled with culinary gems hidden in its nooks and crannies where you can find kalbi and soon doo boo (spicy tofu) 24 hours a day in Koreatown, shabu shabu and ramen on Sawtelle, kebabs along Westwood and Mexican taco stands that I miss so much when in New York. In a sea of a ethnic communities, there is no equivalent to Manhattan's Little Italy. Sure, California saw the newer, later wave of immigration, but where can you go for good, authentic Italian food?

I have my personal favorites where the waiters speak Italian and the menu extends beyond linguine vongole and insalata caprese. But even these restaurants don't transport me to Italy or even the ristorantes in New York, revealing what real Italian food is like. Italian seems so "un"ethnic, many people think of spaghetti and meatballs. What about the wonderful joys and flavors of tripa (stomach lining), bone marrow and squid ink?

My favorite restaurant in New York has to be Babbo, where they serve an amazing beef cheek ravioli. Babbo is Mario Batali's flagship restaurant that has been around for almost 10 years. It is a neighborhood restaurant that maintains that feel (unlike Batali's Del Posto that neighbors and tries to compete with Craft and Morimoto, other behemoths from celebrity chefs)). One of New York's most recognizable, influential (and in my opinion, exciting) chef is probably Mario Batali. He was named one of the most influential players in food by New York magazine along with Keith McNally (Pastis, Balthazar), Jean-Georges Vongerichten (Jean-Georges, Mercer Kitchen) and Danny Meyer (Tabla, Gramercy Tavern), among others.

Batali has created an empire as celebrity chef on the Food Network, brand name behind his cookware, author of cookbooks (which I owe thanks to for many great meals) and restauranteur (Babbo, Del Posto, Lupa, Casa Mono, Bar Jamon, Esca and Otto Enoteca...phew). And with more New York chefs branching out to L.A. (Tom Colicchio's Craft is coming to Century City in the Spring), it was a matter of time until Batali set foot in L.A. and show us Angelenos what real Italian food tastes like and can be.

Batali has teamed up with Nancy Silverton of Campanile and La Brea Bakery. (Who doesn't love Campanile and their breads that you now see at markets from Gelson's to Costo.) Although the adjacent Osteria Mozza will open in a few months, Pizzeria Mozza is now open for lunch and dinner. On Highland and Melrose, Pizzeria Mozza now occupies the space of many failed Italian restaurants. But my instincts and experience at lunch today tells me that they've got the recipe for success. (But really, how can you go wrong with cheese and bread? It may very well be my reason for living.)

Pizzeria Mozza is just that, a pizzeria. (Ristorante is a restaurant in all the sense of the word; trattoria is cheaper and more casual; osteria is even more casual and traditionally an inn; and pizzeria is very casual, serving what else? pizza). The restaurant has a casual, neighborhood feel with a diverse group of diners from the stroller set to industry lunchers. The space is small, with about twenty tables and stools along the bar and an open kitchen where I saw Nancy preparing food, orange apron and all. (What is with the orange? From Mario's clogs to the uniform, I have to wonder what significance orange plays. But I kind of like the outrageousness and Mario's quirkiness.)

I sat at the bar with my friend, John, as the bartender (also serving as our waiter, hence even more waiting) makes the aqua fresca of the day, with orange juice, lemon juice, syrup, mint and club soda. The menu is small - antipastis from roasted olives, squash blossoms to eggplant caponata; salads from a very Californian "chopped" salad to a rucola salad; three different bruschette and panini; a half dozen different salumi like Prosciutto di Parma and coppa; and about a dozen different pizzas. Although I didn't have wine, the wine list was simple and user friendly. (You know the overwhelming feeling of deciphering Italian wines and going through the extensive wine list?) The menu makes it easy for us unofficial foodies and semi-wine enthusiasts; there's about 20 whites and 20 reds and every bottle is under $50.

Waiting seemed to be the trend as we waited half an hour for our pizzas and staved off hunger with breadsticks and boredom with the fun and whimsical (much like Batali...hello. orange clogs?) paper place mats. (The silverware comes in a paper bag along with your paper napkin.) My place mat looked like someone's nonna could have scribbled down the recipe for pizza margherita. (John's place mat was of an Italian comic strip. The bill holder was covered by an old Italian newspaper. It's so fun and novel, it almost seems kitchy, like a faux Italian "McNallyland".)

When I finally decided what to order, our waiter didn't notice until another 10 minutes later. The waiting was appeased when we got our squash blossoms, perfectly fried - crisp and light and oozing with warm ricotta. The waiting was well worth it (especially considering we only waited 10 minutes for a table as other people who came in later were told "45 minutes") when we got our pizzas.

The crust was unlike anything I had seen before, the sides had puffed up like a balloon while all the good stuff sat sunken in the middle. The crust was light and airy yet chewy, probably from a dough with real elasticity. There was enough salt from the fontina and taleggio cheeses and balance between the herbaceous"ness" of thyme and woodiness of the shitake, portobello and white button mushrooms. Maybe a sprinkling of white truffle oil would have perfected the pie? (Although there was a $40 white truffle pizza, but I couldn't justify eating a $40 lunch at one on a Tuesday. Well, at least not outside of Napa Valley.)

The popular choice seemed to be the fennel sausage pizza with panna (cream, like panna cotta - my other reason for living) and red onion, which John got. I love sausage, so this was very good with ping pong-sized meatballs scattered on the "plate" (an idea the Greeks had to use bread as, thus inventing the first pizza). As we sat with full stomachs waiting for our change, I thought how undecidely "L.A." we were. We weren't having a salad and tea at Urth Caffe. We were happily stuffing ourselves with carbs and oil. ...then we left to have some pink berry immediately after.

Pizza Margherita

Pizza Margherita was created in 1889 by a pizzaiolo (the official Italian term for a pizza maker) who made a pizza for Queen Margherita using ingredients symbolizing the Italian flag - mozzarella (white), tomatoes (red) and basil (green).

Pizza Dough:
1 cup warm water
1 1/2 ounces fresh yeast
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
3 cups all-purpose flour

1 cup passata (pureed and sieved tomatoes, skinned and seedless, essentially canned tomato paste)
8 ounces fresh mozzarella, sliced into 12 equal pieces
8 leaves fresh basil

Combine the water, sugar, and yeast in a large bowl and stir until dissolved. Add salt and 1 cup of the flour and mix with a wooden spoon to make a loose batter. Add 2 more cups of the flour and stir with the spoon for 2 to 3 minutes to incorporate as much flour as possible. Bring the dough together by hand and turn out onto a floured board or marble surface. Knead for 6 to 8 minutes, until you have made a smooth, firm dough. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl and cover with a towel. Set aside to rise in the warmest part of the kitchen for 45 minutes. Cut the risen dough into 4 equal pieces and knead each portion into a round. Cover again and let rest 15 minutes. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F. Place a clean pizza stone in oven to preheat. Dust a clean work surface lightly with flour. With your fingers and palms, flatten one of the dough rounds into a 10-inch oval about 1/4-inch thick. Spread 1/4 cup of the passata evenly on entire surface of dough, leaving 1/4-inch of dough to form edge of pizza. Take one piece of mozzarella, slice into 4 uniform slices and put on top of passata. Rip 2 leaves of basil into smaller pieces and sprinkle on top of mozzarella. Slide pizza directly onto pizza stone and bake 15 to 18 minutes, until edge of pizza is golden brown and cheese is bubbling. Repeat with remaining 3 dough balls and serve hot.


You can order your Mario Batali pizza kit at cooking.com.